This fly is my own recipe converted from the well-known Illuminator chironomid, which is very popular in B.C. Over the last four or five years, chironomids have become very popular in Alberta due to their effectiveness, especially in May and early June. I first saw Brian Chan tying with a red butt section on his patterns using red or burgundy thread. I tie this pattern on a #10, 12 or 14 C49S caddis curved hook but it can be tied any size from a #8 to a # 24. I've had outstanding success with this pattern on every stillwater fishery I've wet a line and I'm sure you will too.
HOOK: Sizes 8 to 24 C49S Mustad
RIB: Fine gold wire.
BODY: Red holographic tinsel and green holographic tinsel
THORAX: Peacock herl.
HEAD: Silver bead.
HOOK: Sizes 12 to 16 C49S Mustad
WEIGHT: Lead wire
invented this fly in the fall of 2004 for the Boatman migration on Muir
Lake. This is a floating fly and can be successfully fished two ways.
With a nine-foot leader and fast sinking line, cast the fly out and
wait for your line to sink. Once your fly has been pulled under the
surface film by your sinking line start your retrieve. This will pull
the fly straight down to imitate a diving Water Boatman ready to lay
its eggs. This method works extremely well with the older sinking line
that forms a belly in it as the fly will also rise straight up on your
retrieve simulating a Water Boatman rising to the surface for air. The
other method requires floating line. Look for rings on the surface
where trout are rising to Water Boatman, then cast into the ring. You
should get a hit immediately, if not give it some movement. Some days
you will need fast movement, some days slow. Don't be afraid to
HOOK: Dry sizes 10 to 14
BODY: Tan nymph skin
SHELL: Brown sheet foam
LEGS: Super stretch floss
HOOK: Mustad 9672 #6-12.
THREAD: Black 6/0.
RIB: Optional: Gold wire.
UNDERBODY: Optional: Lead-free round wire.
BODY: Chenille or peacock.
WING: Rabbit zonker strip.
HEAD: Bead or cone.
Crimp barb, add the bead or cone and place hook in vice. Wrap thread back to bend of hook. Tie in rabbit strip, making sure you separate the hairs on the strip so you just tie down on the skin. Pull the strip back and tie in the chenille. Wrap the chenille forward and tie off just behind bead or cone. Pull the remaining strip forward and tie down behind cone, remembering to tie only on the skin. Whip finish and cement.
the most popular dry fly in North America. It was originally tied to
represent a flying caddis. The mottled grizzly and brown hackles
represent the whirring wings of the natural caddis adult attempting to
fly from the water. A first choice fly in a variety of sizes when trout
are being less selective.
This fly is almost as popular as the Adams. A lot of anglers "go to" fly when the fish aren't biting. I
like to let this fly lie on top of the water and twitch it ever so
lightly. I find that as far as movement with the E.H.C., less is more.
Try it in olive, tan, gray or Black.
This fly is quite possibly one of the finest nymphs around. It works great on cloudy early season days when you can't seem to get the trout's attention. This fly is useful anywhere slow water is present.
HOOK: TMC 3761 or Mustad 3906B, #10-#14
THREAD: Black 6/0.
TAIL: Hare's mask guard hairs or brown hen hackle fibers.
RIB: Fine gold tinsel.
ABDOMEN: Natural hare's ear dubbing.
THORAX: Natural hare's ear dubbing.
WINGCASE: Mottled turkey quill.
HOOK: #08-#12, 3X long nymph/streamer.
THREAD: Yellow 6/0.
BODY: Cream yarn.
TAIL: Red deer hair with cream yarn folded over the top
RIBBING: Brown hackle palmered though body, trimmed short.
WING: Underwing of yellow deer hair, overwing of mottled turkey quill.
LEGS: Trimmed and knotted stems from yellow grizzly hackle.
HEAD: Deer hair spun and trimmed into square shape. Tips are left untrimmed on top of the back of the head to form a collar.